The technique and process of Chikankari involves delicately and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics. Using simple tools, highly elaborated work is done to embellish beautiful designs on plain or light-coloured fabric cloth.

Lucknowi Chikankari is not restricted to only women’s fabrics but also has earned a place in men’s Kurtas, especially during festivals. The process of Chikankari basically includes designing, engraving, block-printing, embroidery, and finally washing. We gladly say that being manufacturers we go through each of these steps before we come up with the final unique piece of item. So, do check out our Product Collection before you proceed.

There are other steps too if needed for any add-on work like aari zari, gota patti, mukeish, jaali, etc for styling and designing. But these 6 steps below basically sum up the whole process. The process begins with: –

1. Selection of fabric for the item to be made.
2. Cutting of fabric in desired measurements as per item requirement and its stitching, if its a stitched item.
3. Block printing process of the design, called as “chhapayi” locally.
   Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped in the color solution which is made by mixing glue and indigo. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. In Lucknow, the printing process is done by separate group of artisans who mainly concentrate in printing. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery work.
4. Actual hand embroidery jobwork of lucknow chikankari, done by skilled artisans over the chhapayi designs, weaved using a needle, thread, and a frame which tightly holds the fabric.
   The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. The artisan creates traditional patterns using different techniques. Different types of stitches can be made in one product.
5. Washing, polishing (termed as “charakh” locally) and pressing, after item is submitted by artisan called “karigar” locally.
   Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.
6. Thread cutting, final finishing and packing.

Traditionally, the Chikan work has been done only on white cotton cloth. A detailed study of the craft revealed that at the advent it was used in about 75 to 100 stitches to make breathtaking floral “jaals” and “bail” designs. Later, it has been done using various types of clothes voile, cambric, malmal, rubiya, PC, silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette, silk, organza, pure chiffon, maslin, viscose, etc are used to do the embroidery work to meet the market trend. In recent times Lucknow Chikankari has adapted to different looks through additional embellishments like Mukaish, Kamdani, Badla, Sequins, Aari-Zari, Gotapatti and use of beads and mirror work.